Originally Written for Destination Luxury, May 2017
Set in an imposing red-brick building in South Miami’s flourishing Brickell district, PM Fish & Steakhouse delivers industrial vibes with impressive levels of polish and glitz. With over 25 years of experience and wide ranging success delivering Argentinian inspired cuisine in Mexico, PM first moved into the Miami area in 2009 and have since continued to flourish under Executive Chef Maite Munoz.
Stepping inside, the raw brickwork is tastefully broken up with aged metal plating and nautical-style lamps, alluding to the freshly caught fish sitting resplendent on ice before the open kitchen. The circular bar provides a convivial setting for a pre-dinner cocktail from PM’s lusciously crafted list. Taking a seat on a high back leather bar stool, I opted for the signature ‘Cambalache’- a spicy Hibiscus and Lime mix, with Chipotle infused Mezcal setting the tone for the flavour delights to come. My companion indulged in an aptly-named ‘Buenos Aires’- a refreshing twist on the Mojito featuring Absolut Pear vodka and fresh Lychee puree.
To further tease the taste-buds, we were presented with a bowl of homemade potato chips, puffed up like balloons and wonderfully fresh and crisp. Over my shoulder, I could see the kitchen picking up pace ahead of another busy evening, with the seafood counter showing off the prime catch of the day, whilst the exclusive ember grill flared into action. The atmosphere s iinformal yet elegant, and invokes happy memories of evenings spent in the acclaimed steakhouses of Buenos Aires.
It is the exclusive ember grill which is central to the Steakhouse offering at PM’s. Fired by the embers of a precise blend of wood and charcoal, the natural high temperature cooking divulges exceptional flavour and tenderness to their prime cuts – a superbly executed contrast to the delicate fishes prepared just meters away. Homemade pastas and creative salads bring balance to the menu whilst maintaining the Argentinian feel. Cibeches, Carpaccios and Tartares sit confidently alongside soups, stews and Empanadas whilst never losing focus on their namesake Fish & Steaks.
Having been led up the wonderful cast-iron spiral staircase to the upstairs dining area, we are greeted by the contented patter of satisfied diners, and a wonderful waft of spice. Seated by the floor-to-ceiling windows which practically surround the dining area, we had a wonderful view over the ample outdoor bar and dining area, already buzzing with groups enjoying the lazy sunset.
The team at PM epitomise the very essence of hospitality: At no point were we left wanting for anything, and the smiles and suggestions we received were both honest and genuine. Following our charming server’s recommendation, we opted to begin with an assortment of breads and dips whilst we made our selections. Following on, I couldn’t resist the simple lure of Grilled Octopus. Freshly plucked from the Gulf of Mexico, dressed in quality olive oil, salt and pepper and quickly seared in the roaring heat from the ember grill, it certainly delivered on both taste and tenderness.
The humble Tuna Tartare is a staple of any self-respecting seafood menu, but was successfully escalated to new heights on our visit. The quality of the Tuna spoke for itself, and was perfectly complemented with delicate avocado, shallots, capers and a wonderfully balanced citrus-soy sauce, which bound the dish together.
For main course, we left ourselves at the mercy of the char-grill, and feasted on the signature Wagyu Tenderloin, cooked to absolute perfection with a wonderful crust on the outside. Cutting into this 12oz monster, we were met by a perfectly even hue of pink which epitomised the juiciness for which Wagyu beef is renowned. Accompanying this meaty delight was a hearty portion of grilled vegetables, and the most indulgent of creamed spinach dishes. Divinely rich and creamy, seasoned to perfection and topped with a wonderfully intense mix of cheese, this was a feast in its own right.
French Fries, Baked Potatoes and Creamy Mash are all familiar staples of the American Steakhouse and executed with precision, but a visit to PM’s wouldn’t be complete without sampling one of their signature Soufflé Potatoes. Wondrously light and fluffy, and with just the right touch of cream cheese, these were the ultimate accompaniment to our Steak. Baked Wild Mushrooms with garlic, parsley, olive oil and three cheeses requires no further introduction as the ingredients speak for themselves, and delivered on every point.
Another recommendation of the house, the Shrimp & Octopus Stew, was also an immense success. Generous chunks of Octopus and meaty shrimps were lovingly braised in their own natural juices along with potatoes, bell peppers and olives, and delicately finished with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil. Delicate yet bold; Spicy yet subtle and undeniably fresh, this simple yet refined cookery demonstrates the awesome skill of the chefs in delivering classic cooking with an upmarket twist.
Having devoured our main courses, it was wonderful to see that the same love, attention and skill that we had graced every other aspect of our evening so far, had not been spared on PM’s desert menu. On offer were delights such as a Chocolate Soufflé, Crème Brulée and the ‘Coffe Mantecado’ – a fine almond biscuit filled with coffee ice cream. A life-long lover of pastry deserts, we opted to share a portion of ‘Blintzes’. These ample baked crepes are filled with an airy mix of cottage cheese, and finished with a most indulgent berry coulis. Wonderfully light and, critically, not too sweet, this proved the perfect sign off to an exceptional meal.
It is little wonder, therefore, that the team received the coveted OpenTable Diner’s Choice award earlier this year. PM’s stated goal is to fuse the simple elegance of a traditional steakhouse with contemporary design, an inviting ambience and a superior dining experience. Whilst an arguably bold mission, from me at least, it’s mission accomplished.